![]() ![]() I had a feeling before that this might be not good, but I did it and went to the BT forum only after to find a warning about it there. Recently I went into ruining my 3rd piece of BT because of feeling the need to clean it with Isopropanol-Alcohol from some oil that dripped down after lubricating the bearings. You can also lift the spatula a bit after having stopped (doing this while pushing forward scratches the BuildTak) giving the print a small lift like that.ĭoing it like this allowed me to get off any print off without damaging the BuildTak surface. Give it a few seconds until it stops then continue pushing the spatula deeper. You can hear the print like it’s cracking and sounds like there is air getting under it. Just use some force to push the spatula forward until you need much more force, then stop. And now here’s the trick: You have to let the BuildTak ‚breath‘ while going further with the bigger spatula. At the time I have that small and not sharp spatula under the raft, I use another one wich is much thicker but also not sharp to get under the first spatula. Mine costs about 3 Euros, that allows me to bend some more for the price of the BuildTak spatula. BuildTak sells their own spatula, I do not know how this one works. In the picture you can see it is already bend, I still use it with the remaining straight part of the blade, always reminded to use it with two hands and to be careful. I have to use both hands to work it below the raft. I bought a spatula wich is 0.1mm thick this is already very thin and tends to bend. If you live in an area where it is warmer than 30☌ you could try freezer spray as some suggested in the forum or maybe put the print plate at a colder place for some time (I would not dare to use a very cold fridge when the glass plate is still hot!).Īfter the cool down you have to get under an edge of the print (raft). After the print finished, it is essential to give the bed and the bottom of the printed object / raft a cool down of some degrees. ![]() I use the standard bed temp (40☌ for example for PLA) and the room temp is around 30☌. I also use the R3D provided printing profiles and bed temps for PLA and ABS, did not find I had to change anything (except layer height, I like to print with 0.3mm).Ībout the cool down. If you have a perfect leveled bed and want better bottom surface quality than what can be achieved with a raft, just switch to glass. I always was arguing against raft, but this was another printer and the raft was without islands using up so much useless time and wasting material. Having an absolute leveled bed with a printing area of 30x30cm is something I question at all (with standard desktop printer setup and printing accuracy down to 10 micron), mostly because I am too lazy to analyze and tune. I have no need to adjust Z, since I use about 4 PLA brands that I know to work similar. ![]() Some PLA tends to swell more than others, maybe you have to adjust Z-Height according to the filament that is used (newer IdeaMaker versions let you do this by software). With any printing surface you have to use a correct initial Z-Height (bed to nozzle distance when Z is homed), this assumed as basic requirement. If your BuildTak looses adhesion (or your cleaned it with Isopropyl-Alcohol), recondition it! Never use Acetone or Isopropyl-Alcohol to clean it, BuildTak will loose it’s adhesion immediately! Never use sharp tools to release the print, otherwise you can easily destroy the BuildTak surface! Let the print bed cool down before trying to get the print off the bed (simulate cool down if room temp is almost like bed temp)! The short story / some more exclamation marks: Up to now I only print PLA and ABS on my Raise, other materials may need additional/different treatment, but there are some posts in the forum about it. To be honest, I ruined two sheets until I got used to it, but from the first print, I saw how good that surface clamps my large and flat prints to the bed wich is even more important when filling the print area on such big printers like the N2. I saw many posts in the forum that tell what a problematic printing surface BuildTak is and many seem to fail in using this great printing surface. The headline is also the bottom line here.
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